Glacier National Park, Montana
   
 
  
Rugged - first impressions of Montana  


View from road coming into East Glacier National Park from Browning

July 2003

Finally, I have seen Montana. I have always liked mountains. Watching movies like Legends of the Fall, A River Runs through it, and Of Mice and Men, I've always wanted to visit Montana. Also, my excitement was built by the description told by my friends (CP and KM), who have lived in Montana for a year. Having seen the Rocky Mountains in Colorado and Utah, I thought the Rockies of Montana should be even more extreme and beautiful.

 
 
West side of Glacier NP

Good sunsets and cities nearby.

 


Near Kalispell - unlike the Rockies in Colorado, the high mountains are to the east and not blocking the sunset.


For the mountains, they are more desolate than Colorado's green mountains (like the type near Colorado springs). The flight into Kalispell was beautiful. Because we flew into a place that was west of Glacier National Park, I got to see the tremendous glacier-carved mountains from the sky. Unfortunately, the airplane window was dirty so a good photo wasn't possible. When I saw the mountains of West Glacier National Park, I was disappointed. The last one third of the mountain tops are bald and sparsely covered with bleached white trunks of dead, weather beaten trees. Everything is rugged and I was looking for the softer side of Montana. This would not be found from the threatening scenery of West Glacier National Park.

     
 
 
East side - better lakes, more dramatic terrain  


East side of Logan's Pass


East Glacier National Park was beautiful. On the drive to St. Mary's campground, there are many wildflowers along the sides of the road. A couple vistas of the jagged mountains with snow patches are available to the alert eyes. In the park, there are enough trees of all varieties, not many dead, scruffy pines. This, along with the flowers, gives the east side of Glacier National Park a welcoming ambiance.

     
 
 
Geology - sculpted by glaciers  
Road to Many Glacier Lodge - Glaciers carve long
narrow 'U' shaped valleys, providing sweeping views
of the mountain. In contrast, most valleys
are twisty, 'V' shaped and one mountain range
are hides the other.

East Glacier National Park - St. Mary Lake

Lakes and the bowled out mountains that hold are clues to the existence of huge glaciers that carved out the area. First the Lewis Thrust Fault collided with another plate and upheaval layers of rock. Then a glacier slowly pulled softer rock away from the rock face. This Lewis Thrust Fault ends here, at the Red Eagle Mountain. At the east entrance of Glacier National Park (Glacier NP), go to the visitor center near the St. Mary's campground. Browse through the books on hiking and look at the 3D relief map of the park. It has the names of many of the mountains and shows how the campgrounds, roads and hiking trails are positioned between the terrain. For photographers or the adventurer, the 3D map is useful for finding good trails with scenic views.

 

East Glacier National Park - Red Eagle Mountain

On Red Eagle Mountain, scaring can be seen. They look like deep gouges made from an ice pick being scraped diagonally across the rock face of Red Eagle Mountain. A crisscross pattern with the rock layers that are also diagonal, but in the opposite direction. The deep gouges can't be made from erosion because gravity would loosen rock in a straight down manner, making an up-down gouge, not across. However, erosion has taken place. Melting snow and gravity are what made wide ravines from the top that funnel down one third of the mountain. For the gouges and lake, they were formed from the St. Mary glacier as it slid east. Another reason for the gouges is the rock crystalline structure. Parallel occur on the weak cleave lines inherit in the rock. If this interests you, there are geology books at the visitor center near the St. Mary campground that have more information specific to Montana and Glacier NP. The scarring gouges made from the glaciers can be seen on the photo.


Scarring on Red Eagle Mountain. See from Rising Sun Campgrounds (Click for larger photo).

Books - Road Guide by Thomas Schmidt

Available at the Visitor Center, the book Road Guide to Glacier and Waterton Lakes National Parks is a steal at $6. The author Thomas Schmidt has been a great source of scientific information about the geology, and animals of Glacier NP. Also, it has photos of the scenic roadside stops with the names of the peaks. Besides geology and animals, many paragraphs tell local Indian tales associated with the land or history.

 
 
Lakes of changing color  
Lake McDonald
 

Dark greens, and deep blues are often the colors of the beautiful lakes formed by glaciers. Because of the amazing color, you might wonder if the water is different from other lakes. What could make such a dramatic change? What's different from other lakes is the Mie effect, but I have to check on that name. Tiny particles called rock flour or glacier flour is created from glacier movement. As the glacier slides, it pulverizes the rocks and the rock face on the surface. These particles are suspended in the water whereas larger particles sink. Because of the small size of the rock flour particles, blue and green light is reflected. Hence the magnificent color of the lakes. Meltwater, water coming from the glaciers carry the rock flour to the lakes.

Actually, the lakes take on most of their color from what is reflected. Usually the pine trees or the sky. Test it out. If the land on the other side is flat, then the lake will most likely be a dark blue (unless it is cloudy, then it will be gray or white). However, if the other side has mountains with trees, then the lake will have an emerald green (I like this color better for photos). So if you don't like the color of the lake, get another angle. Hike or drive to another point. Climb higher and look for a meadow or cliff. For some great photos of a very green St. Mary Lake, I hiked three miles on the Siyeh Pass trail to a cliff.

Photo tip - the color is better from a higher viewpoint so go on some uphill hikes.

       
 
 

Hikes - bring plenty of water, the air dries you out

Wish my sister were there. The hikes at Glacier NP remind me of the hikes at Zion NP.

 
My nephew Noah hiking

Maps

Hidden Lake (3 mi round trip, elevation change 460 ft) - Trailhead is at Logan's Pass. Look on the hills for big horn sheep or mountain goats. Best short hike; everyone can do it. But it is hard to find parking so go in the early morning or late afternoon.

Siyeh Pass (11 mi to the pass, elevation change 2,230 ft; 5 mi to a good photo spot, round trip) - Park at the Sunrift Gorge roadside stop. Start the hike by looking at the rapids under the bridge and end there by splashing your face with the icy water.

Otokomi Lake (10.5 mi round trip, elevation change 1,900 ft) - Camp at the Rising Sun campground for a convenient start because the trailhead is 2 minutes away beside the general store. Hike along a river that provides glimpses of waterfalls.

 
 
Wildlife photos and flowers - Unfortunately, I never saw a grizzly

Best spots for wildlife are on the roadsides. This is convenient and you have the protection of your car. Never saw a grizzly, but if I did, I would taken many photos (from a distance).

To get a close up photo, use a telephoto lens or just settle for a postcard. Even though the animals in the park have been around people for a long time, remember these animals are unpredictable. Do not approach them or pursue the animal into the woods or up a hill. While hitching a ride with a park ranger (specializing in wildlife), I was told approaching the animals is not allowed in the parks and he always enforces this rule.

   
     
 
 
Please email corrections or comments to: webmaster@techborder.com Last updated: 08/01/2003
 
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